Monthly Archives: January 2013

I was watching surfers in San Diego. This was the first time I could see people do it ‘live’. I had often imagined surfers as seeming to go up and down constantly on a board and never spending much time in the water. An imagined wave after wave of thrills and rides. The truth is really something different. A great deal of time is spent in the water, bobbing around, waiting astride their boards for a wave to come along. Continue reading →